Wicklow Mountains
“It is a glory of tender green and shaded amethyst and grateful hum of bees, the very voice of Spring.”
Waterford
Famed glass manufacturer Waterford Crystal began here in 1783. We stopped in their store and perused the goods, but expensive glass items and long travels are incompatible. We considered taking the tour, but skipped it in the interests of time.
The remains of two cities walls, one Medieval and the other Viking.
Random bits of wall pop up as you walk around.
Some have nearly been swallowed by modernity.
Largely because it was a seaport, Waterford is the country’s oldest city, founded by Vikings in 914 AD.
Waterford’s “Viking Triangle” is a compact part of the original settlement, dedicated to remembering the city’s Viking heritage.
Originally the site of a wooden Viking fort, the Reginald’s Tower (above) we see today actually owes its existence to the Anglo-Normans who made it the strongest point of the medieval defensive walls. Later it was utilized as a mint under King John, before serving various functions under many English monarchs.
A full-size replica Viking longship.
The William Vincent Wallace Millennium Plaza commemorates one of the greatest nineteenth century composers of English opera. The plaza has a nautical theme that echoes the masts and sailing ships which once frequented this port, and was built as the city’s millennium project in 2000.
The Irish Museum of Time features the oldest Irish-made grandfather clocks, table clocks, and watches in the world and celebrates the incredible skills of the virtuoso craftsmen who, since the seventeenth century, created timepieces of remarkable beauty and technological genius.
Luke Wadding is the Waterford man who created St Patrick's Day. Wadding was born in Waterford in 1588, becoming a Franciscan friar in 1607 and an ordained priest in 1613.
Through Wadding's efforts, St Patrick’s Day became a “feast day;” however, it would take years for it to develop. In fact, it wasn’t until the 20th century that St Patrick's Day parades first occurred in his native Ireland.
Interestingly, the first organized celebrations in America took place in the 18th century in cities like Boston and New York, long before being celebrated in Ireland. Today St Patrick’s Day celebrations occurs in places as faraway as Russia and Japan.
The 1863 Gothic Revival clocktower and fountain on Meagher's Quay.
Glenmalure Pines Estates
Here is a tour of our cabin with amazing views of the Wicklow Mountains: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yduw2fiAXRg
Glendalough
Glendalogh (pronounced Glena-lock, just like how the Scottish pronounce Loch) is a glacial valley that is home to an early medieval monastic settlement, two beautiful lakes, a waterfall, and amazing hiking.
Glendalough is home to one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland. This early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”—consisting of a number of monastic remains.
St Kevin's Church
The church is commonly known as St Kevin's Kitchen, as the bell tower resembles a kitchen chimney; however, food was not cooked here.
The most impressive remain is the Round Tower (although the elaborate Celtic cross gravestone isn't half bad either).
Rapunzel!
Rapunzel!
Let down your hair
That I may climb thy golden stair!
The tower stands 100 feet tall. Round towers were the Campaniles or Bell Towers of Early Irish Monasteries, summoning the monks to prayer.
This tower had six floors with wooden landings—now vanished. The top story has four windows, and the other upper stories have one each. The door is almost 12 feet above ground and was presumably reached by means of a movable ladder which those inside could pull up after them to prevent an enemy from entering the tower.
Walking the Tombstone Gauntlet.
The breathtaking natural scenery—the lough glittering in the sunlight and the mountains rising above—is inspiring.
The lovely lawn looking toward Glendalough. No surprise the director of the movie Leap Year used this as his backdrop for the wedding scene.
As the bride gives her romantic speech to her husband at the top table, behind them lies the stunning views of the lough and the surrounding mountains.
Later in the film Leap Year, this is where Declan and Anna nearly kiss (right before she loses her cookies on his shoes 🤮).
Also in the film, Declan’s Pub, named Caragh’s Inn, was obviously not in Dingle, but in the village of Kilmurvey on the Aran Island of Inis Mór (see our post Cliffs of Insanity).
I had forgotten about the pub scenes being filmed there; however, the building is apparently all boarded up now anyway.
However, Declan does propose to Anna overlooking the Dún Aonghasa cliff fort, so at least we were able to visit that site.
Anyway, back to Glendalough…Is this place even real?!
The Reefert Church may have been built in around the 11th century. It stands on a site which has always been regarded as the burial place of the local chieftain's clan, the O' Tooles.
The valley of Glendalough was formed during the last ice age by a glacier that left a moraine across the valley mouth. The Poulanass River, which plunges into the valley from the south, via the Poulanass Waterfall, created a delta, which eventually divided the original lake in two (now Upper Lake and Lower Lake).
From the Spinc Trail, Lower Lake is visible in the distance and Upper Lake is just visible to the left. Spinc is from the Irish "An Spinc," meaning “pointed hill.”
Along the southern ridgeline looking toward the mouth of the canyon.
Upper Lake. The delta formed by the Poulanass River is the green space, with Lower Lake, and the moraine beyond.
Gorgeous!
The Happy Pear
For her Spring semester in 2015, Erica did a study abroad program in Greystones, Ireland. While she was there, one of her favorite places to get coffee was The Happy Pear. We dropped in today to check it out.
Yummy mocha 😋 Tasty, fresh bread and some desserts in the bag.
Killruddery House and Gardens
Killruddery House has been home to the Brabazon family (the Earls of Meath) since 1618. The gardens are the oldest in Ireland still surviving in their original 17th century form. The house remains the family’s home.
The family crest features wyverns—a type of dragon with two legs, two wings, and often a pointed tail which is said to be a venomous stinger. They are popular creatures in European literature, mythology, and folklore.
The front entrance, which is very recognizable from the recent Netflix series Fate: The Winx Series.
It was also used as the home of Shannon from Far and Away with Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman.
It was similarly featured in movies The Turning and Angela’s Ashes, and in the TV series The Tudors and Camelot.
The Orangery.
The Long Ponds are twin 614-foot-long canals, known as “miroirs d’eaux” or reflecting ponds.
The Orangery, built in the fashion of the Crystal Palace in England.
Inspired by the Renaissance gardens of Italy, the 10th and 11th Earls collected sculptures during their European tours. These 19th century artworks lend a Classical style to the Orangery, representing mythological heroes, famous historical figures, and some family members.
Ganymede And The Eagle—The ancient Greek tale tells how Ganymede, son of King Tros (who gave Troy its name), was the most beautiful of all youths. Ganymede is chosen by the gods as Zeus' cupbearer.
Fired with great lust, the father of the gods clothes himself in eagle feathers and hunts out the youth on the Plain of Troy in order to lure him away to Olympus. Ganymede artlessly offers his drinking bowl to this eagle that drops from the sky, and the disguised supreme Olympic god dips his beak into the bowl.
As a sign of his origin, the youth wears the Phrygian cap and holds a jug in his right hand.
Ganymede was to take the place of Hebe as the taster of the gods, because she spilled the drink—the nectar—that made the gods immortal.
In Greek mythology, Cyparissus or Kyparissos was a boy beloved by Apollo or in some versions by other deities. In the best-known version of the story, the favorite companion of Cyparissus was a tamed stag, which he accidentally killed with his hunting javelin as it lay sleeping in the woods.
Beech Hedge Pond
A band of color amidst the green..
Rather than just a simple elevation change, the Ha Ha at Killruddery is called the Cascades.
The view from The Rock.
A sow and her piglets drunk on milk.
Bray to Greystones Walk
After our visit to Killruddery, we drove to the beach city of Bray and attempted to enjoy a cliffside walk recommended by Erica—the Bray to Greystones Walk.
However, we only made it about a half mile in…
The trail was temporarily closed due to a number of landslides. So nice that they put up a sign at the trailhead letting you know—not!
We did drive around south to the Greystones side so we could at least say we saw both ends of the trail. We tried Erica! 😊
Back to the Happy Pear
Being vegan violates the unofficial Code of Irishness, so when we found the Happy Pear not only served great coffee, but also great food that was vegan, delicious, and reasonably priced—we were in…again!
We were going to stop at Tesco to grab food for our last two dinners in Ireland, but new plan: eat an early dinner both nights at the Happy Pear instead.
Great decision BTW, the food was really excellent…and at only €30 for everything…not bad!
Check out our dinner companion. I think it’s just a common Irish Garden Bird, but as Dumb and Dumber would say, “Pretty bird.”
Bike racks in Greystones ❤️
Powerscourt House and Gardens
Back in 2010, National Geographic rated the 10 best gardens in the world. It will probably come as no surprise that Château de Versailles in France was rated most beautiful, followed by Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in England. However, you may be surprised to learn that Powerscourt Gardens in Ireland was awarded the number 3 slot.
Designed in the 18th century, the grounds, waterfalls, parks, garden pavilions, and fine tree-lined arbors were inspired by the Italian Renaissance and the great estates and gardens of France and Germany. Cascading terraces and formal landscapes are planned with carefully designed walks that are framed by the gentle beauty of the Wicklow Mountains.
The grand central pathway leading from the house is called the Italian Garden, unfolding down a meticulously manicured landscape. The Garden ends at Triton Lake with Sugarloaf Mountain standing majestically in the distance.
Cherub smelling the flowers.
Is that a dragon in your pocket or are you just happy to see me? There are just so many things wrong with this statue!
Approaching Triton Lake.
Are two Pegasus Pegasi?
A statue representing one of the four virtues (sorry, not sure which).
The day started with overcast and rain, so once sunlight began dappling the flowers on the forest floor, it was wonderful to see.
The woodland sections of the gardens contain trees from around the globe. Given that many trees were planted in the 1700s, some have become quite large. (I’m hiding in the shadows if you look closely.)
Sugarloaf Mountain
Triton Lake from the back side of the lake.
The grotto.
Inside the Japanese Garden.
The sunlight warming the colors was magically.
Entering Tower Valley, named both for the towering trees and the hidden tower.
Pepperpot Tower provides expansive vistas over the gardens and the Wicklow Mountains beyond.
View from the top.
The old well.
Although still on the Powercourt property, it’s about a 15 minute drive (and a separate entrance fee 😠) to reach Powerscourt Waterfall.
Powerscourt is Ireland’s highest waterfall, cascading down 70 feet.
Enniskerry
This small village just outside the gates of Powercourt was used to film the scene in Leap Year where, toward the end of the film, Declan and Anna fall asleep on a park bench while waiting for a bus. Since we were so close, we thought it would be fun to see the spot.
The bench in the village square.
A lot has changed, but if you look at the houses in the background and the unique cable border, it’s clearly the same spot.
It truly is a beautiful spot.
Slán leat Ireland
We will certainly miss watching the ewes, lambs, and rabbits from our balcony. The lambs are especially fun to watch when they are feeding—their tails wag wildly, just like dogs. They are adorable!
It’s hard to believe we have been in Ireland for three weeks already. And so the sun sets on our final day on the Emerald Isle, and tomorrow we head back to Dublin for the return ferry to Holyhead, Wales.
