White Cliffs of Dover
The Bard famously brought the cliffs to the attention of the nation in the play King Lear. So much so, one of the cliffs is named after him. The climax of the play takes place on and around Dover's white cliffs. The blinded Earl of Gloucester wants to throw himself from the cliff tops and says the lines:
“There is a cliff, whose high and bending head looks fearfully in the confined deep: Bring me to the very brim of it, and I’ll repair the misery thou dost bear...”
Can you believe this is winter in England? Jackets, hats, and gloves? Yes! But also sunglasses and clear skies!
It might be hard to see, but on the horizon on the right side of this photo you can make out France. That’s as close as we’ve been to France, but now I can safely sing the song: “I see London, I see France, I see Amanda’s…”
We got close enough to France that my watch got a bit overzealous.
We ran into some cows along the cliff path.
Looking west back toward the trailhead and the harbor.
Will and me looking out over the English Channel as a ship gets underway.
Nearing the South Foreland Lighthouse.
The lighthouse behind us (it was closed for the winter), we headed back toward the trailhead.
Back at the visitor center, we got out of the wind and warmed up with some tea, scones, and hot chocolate.
What an amazing view while you dine!
The white chalk faced cliffs are an iconic landmark; however, the really amazing views are from the air or the water. If you’ve seen those money shots on TV, then you’ve already seen more than you’ll see by visiting in person. It was an amazing view over the English Channel and the hike was beautiful, but you really don’t get much of a view of the cliffs. The best way to view the cliffs would probably be on a ferry ride to or from France.
We knew going in that we would miss many attractions during this time of the year. The network of tunnels constructed to provide accommodation for the soldiers working on the WW-II gun battery at the Fan Bay Deep Shelter were closed, as was Dover Castle.
The vast defenses of Western Heights of Dover were open but we did not visit. We also did not visit the beautiful beach at Samphire Hoe, Hougham Battery, stand on Dover Pier, or view the Channel Tunnel entrance. All that to say, there may be a great many reasons for you to visit the area other than the cliffs.
Crooked Houses
One of the most surprising things about Canterbury is the stunning old buildings. They are everywhere and even the most mundane of businesses may be operated out of the most stunning buildings.
A dime-a-dozen Pret A Manger in this stunner. Check out the ancient timbers in the image below.
A run-of-the-mill Caffè Nero in this amazingly crooked old building from 1573.
They had to redo the windows as the house began to lean.
You know humans have gotten taller over the years when you see these old doors.
Just your average school entrance.
We saved the best for last. See if you think it’s official name makes sense—The Crooked House.
“...very old house bulging out over the road...leaning forward, trying to see who was passing on the narrow pavement below...”
- Charles Dickens, 1849
Insane!
Punting on the Great Stour
We wanted to go punting on the Great Stour. Our intention was to go through the main parts of town, but the river was flowing too fast on that section. They offered for us to go through the estuary instead, which we did. In retrospect, we should have skipped the tour unless we could go through the city.
Situated just outside the city walls, St Augustine’s Abbey was originally created as a burial place for the Anglo-Saxon kings of Kent. Today the ruins remain and Amanda and I took a few minutes to walk around the site (I’m standing in what was once the crypt).
Afterward we walked to St Martin’s Church. As we get older it seems we avoid admitting our age. In England, the opposite is very much the case—at least with regard to places. St Martin's Church alleges it is the oldest parish church in England. Christian Queen Bertha worshipped at St Martins after her marriage to the pagan King Ethelbert of Kent in AD 580!
What a spot!
Queen Bertha
The portion of the church closest to the camera originates in Roman times. The slightly taller roof was added later and the tower was added in Norman times. The clouds are today’s magic.
The graveyard is beautiful.
The Parrot
Speaking of claims of being the oldest, founded in 1370, The Parrot is allegedly the oldest pub in Canterbury. We stopped in for a pint to wrap up our Saturday night.
We each drank a lager from Whitstable Brewery, the coastal town just up the road from Canterbury.
This is some old shiznit!
Such a great place to hang out.
