A Castle & A Chapel
“Wine is strong.
The king is stronger.
Women are stronger still.
But truth conquers all.”
Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Before we get to the amazing castle and chapel stories from Wednesday, Tuesday (Nov 29) was spent wandering amongst the many paintings and sculptures at The Scottish National Portrait Gallery. There were many amazing finds, but a favorite was this imposing portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II set against the highland backdrop at her beloved Balmoral estate. Her Majesty was presented as Sovereign of the Order of the Thistle. The Order dates from the 17th century and recognizes individuals who have contributed significantly to national life. Her Majesty is wearing the robes of the Order and insignia bearing the emblem of the thistle—the national flower of Scotland. The portrait was taken in 2010 and it is still shocking in some way to see her life bracketed: 1926-2022.
So much history to explore, including perennial favorites: King Charles I (1600-1649) and The Jacobite Risings (1689-1746). Of course one of Amanda’s most beloved historical figures is Mary Queen of Scots (1542-1587). There are precious few portraits of Mary, making this one rare and iconic.
This particular composition is known as the “Sheffield Portrait” because it was thought in the twentieth century to have come from a portrait painted when she was held by the Earl of Shrewsbury at either Sheffield Castle or Sheffield Manor.
Looking down on the magnificent main entrance hall. Queen Elizabeth II’s portrait is just visible to the right of the open doors
Craigmillar Castle
Sarah Karnasiewicz wrote that “serendipity is the traveler's strongest ally,” and you will find no two people who find her sentiment more true than us today (Wed Nov 30). With greater confidence in navigating the Lothian bus network, we decided to visit Craigmillar Castle, essentially on a whim. The Lothian bus app suggested we walk from the bus stop through a field to the castle. This inauspicious start became a rather spectacular approach.
Looking back down the hill toward the bus stop. Here’s the amazing view in video form: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snYgFbTpDwc
Approaching the castle from the fields.
The second bit of serendipity was when we entered the castle walls and read that portions of Outlander were filmed here.
Yes, that’s Amanda’s hall pass Sam Heughan being led from Ardsmuir Prison in Season 3, nine years after Scottish defeat at Culloden. Amanda has been in love with Jaime since she read Outlander at 18 years of age. And then they cast Sam for the TV series…I never stood a chance. 🤪
Although visitors enter here, this was the back of the castle. Originally the earth was lower and there was likely a drawbridge leading to the large wooden doors. The original tower house in the center was built in the late 1300s! The courtyard wall was built in 1400s, with gunholes shaped like inverted keyholes.
Here’s a video from inside the castle walls: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43pRCGuWM5k
The third bit of serendipity was learning that none other than Mary Queen of Scots may have stayed at Craigmillar in 1566. As I mentioned in the video above, Craigmillar may be one of the most complete castle ruins you can visit in the UK, and it is so much fun to explore. It’s magical that there are so few restrictions as to where you can roam. When we decided to visit, we had no idea what a great experience this castle would be!
A panoramic with Arthur’s Seat in the distance.
The fourth and final serendipitous occurrence was that a worker at the castle convinced us to travel on to Rosslyn Chapel. And it is here where our versions of the story may differ, ever so slightly.
I maintain I initially thought it was too far because we were of the understanding that we would first have to take a bus back to Edinburgh, switch to another bus, and then double back to Rosslyn. However, once the nice man at the visitor center convinced me we could get there without going too far out of our way, I agreed to continue.
As Amanda tells the story, she had wanted to go to Rosslyn Chapel from the outset, but I dismissed her out of hand. That is…until a different worker from the visitor’s center—a bonnie lassie with a lovely Scottish brogue—suggested we journey over to Rosslyn. Once she suggested it, I was all over the idea! When Amanda suggested it—forget it. But when the pretty woman with the sexy accent suggested it—woohoo—let’s do this!
I’ll leave it to you, kind reader, to decide which is the more accurate account. 😏
Rosslyn Chapel
Oh Rosslyn Chapel! Founded in 1446 as a family chapel, it is a truly unique and breathtaking experience. We have visited some magnificent cathedrals, but you would be hard pressed to find another with more ornate carvings and symbolism. While many cathedrals are full of symbolism—it is literally carved into nearly every surface of Rosslyn Chapel, from front to back and top to bottom.
The indescribably beautiful interior would be greatly aided by photos detailing the stunning carvings, but alas they do not permit photos to be taken inside. Fortunately, you can take this virtual tour!
Following the Reformation, the Chapel fell into disrepair and, in 1650, Cromwell’s troops attacked Rosslyn Castle. The Chapel was spared, although it was used for stabling the troop’s horses. Over the years, the family has struggled to get funding to repair the chapel, but the publication of Dan Brown's novel, The Da Vinci Code, in 2003, and the subsequent film (filmed at Rosslyn Chapel), brought notoriety and a great deal of visitors. (We rented the movie from Amazon after we returned home—very fun to watch.) Thankfully, in large part due to the massive influx of paying visitors, the Chapel has been beautifully restored.
We were so fortunate to visit two incredible spots on such a gorgeous day. Here are some parting exterior shots:
Always on the lookout for personal applications. 😇
The wild landscape and overgrown ruin of the Chapel, and their romantic associations, meant Rosslyn became a muse for poets, writers, and artists alike in the 18th and 19th Centuries. In 1805 Sir Walter Scott wrote the Lay of the Last Minstrel, a poem about the engaging myth that the building appears as if on fire the night that a Rosslyn baron passes away. For this reason, they illuminate the chapel with red lights.
The moon and the memorial to Francis Robert St Clair-Erskine, the fourth Earl of Rosslyn (1833-1890).
