Ouarzazate, Kasbah Ait-Ben-Haddou, Tizi n'Tichka, & Jemâa el-Fna Square
“To travel is to live.”
–Hans Christian Andersen
Day 8 – Wednesday, January 17, 2024
Ouarzazate is considered the African movie capital, earning the nickname “Ouarzawood.” Ouarzazate’s filmography includes:
Lawrence of Arabia (1962)
The Jewel of the Nile (1985)
Bond: The Living Daylights (1986)
The Last Temptation of Christ (1988)
Kundun (1997)
Legionnaire (1997)
The Mummy (1999)
Gladiator (2000)
Spy Game (2001)
The Passion of Christ (2004)
Kingdom of Heaven (2005)
Home of the Brave (2006)
The Hills Have Eyes (2006)
Babel (2006)
The Objective (2008)
Body of Lies (2008)
Game of Thrones (2009)
Tut (2009)
Ben Hur (2009)
Prince of Persia (The Sands of Time) (2010)
Prometheus (2010)
Salmon Fishing in the Yemen (2010)
The Way Back (2010)
Queen of the Desert (2014)
Hercules (2014)
The Grand Tour (2016)
Jezabel (2019)
Brutus vs. Cesar (2020)
Cherry (2021)
We started our morning in Ouarzazate with a walk through town to Kasbah Taourirt. Because of the dramatic appearance of this 17th century fortified residential complex (or kasbah), it has appeared in films such as Gladiator and Prince of Persia.
After meandering through the streets of the old medina, we visited the Ouarzazate Cinema Museum. There is not much to write about, but there are a few good pictures. Back on the bus, we stopped and took photos of the outside of the Oscar Hotel by Atlas Studios, built in 1983 by a Moroccan investor to accommodate Hollywood film crews. We also drove past the neighboring CLA Studios, which opened in 2004.
We then stopped at the Kasbah Ait-Ben-Haddou. It was a 30-minute stop, so Dave and I high-tailed it so we could make it up the hilltop and back in time. The kasbah itself is below the hilltop, but the views from on top were amazing and well worth the effort. A short drive later we stopped and enjoyed lunch on the outdoor patio at Café Rafik.
After lunch, we followed National Route 9 (N9) toward Tizi n’Tichka. Tizi n'Tichka is a mountain pass linking Ouarzazate and the Sahara Desert in the south, through the High Atlas Mountains, to the great Marrakesh plains in the north. The Col du Tichka summit marker says 7,415 feet, but apparently 7,234 feet is more accurate.
The road was constructed along the old caravan trail by the French military in 1936, and is now part of N9. It’s not quite the insanity of the Karakoram Highway between China and Pakistan, but it does have the impressive altitude and hairpin turns of Grossglockner High-Alpine Road in Austria. I’m certain the photos won’t do it justice, but as far as roads themselves being a tourist destination, the Tizi n’Tichka pass certainly holds its own.
Then it was off to the Marrakesh and the Menara Mall for people to purchase their drinks of choice, and then the bus delivered us to our final, official hotel for the tour: Hotel Meriem.
After dinner, a handful of us took up Abdul on his offer to take horse-drawn carriages from our hotel to Marrakesh’s famous Jemâa el-Fna outdoor market space. And what a ride it was! Morocco had just defeated Tanzania 3-0 in the World Cup match, so Moroccans were out in droves, honking and celebrating—their collective pride palpable.
Despite being around 8:30 at night, every inch of the massive Jemâa el-Fna Square was covered with vendors and was very much alive. Jemâa el-Fna is one of the main cultural spaces in Marrakesh and has become one of the symbols of the city since its foundation in the eleventh century. Located at the entrance of the medina, this triangular square, which is surrounded by restaurants, stands, and public buildings, provides everyday commercial activities and various forms of entertainment.
Here some in the group tried escargot from a street vendor. After wandering for a bit, we went up inside Argana restaurant, where we enjoyed ice cream and sorbet with wonderful views over the Square. We came back to the square the next morning, but nothing compares with its energy at night.
Our bus in front of the Hotel La Perle du Sud in Ouarzazate, Morocco’s movie capital.
The 11th century Kasbah Taourirt in Ouarzazate, used in films like Gladiator for obvious reasons.
Two gladiators in Ouarzazate—not!
City scenes in old Ouarzazate.
City scenes in old Ouarzazate. Notice the symbol for Berber painted on the building and on the sign.
Apparently the loud speaker isn’t enough to dissuade storks from nesting.
Local hammam (bath house)
City scenes in old Ouarzazate.
Traditional cedar window coverings.
Jewish temple in old Ouarzazate.
The symbol of a hand, often with an eye in the center, is known as the hamsa or hand of Fatima. It is most commonly used in religious traditions from the Middle East and North Africa. In Jewish communities, it is most often seen in the Mizrahi and Sephardi Jewish ethnic subgroups, which tend to be more closely aligned with Judaism's Middle Eastern roots.
Another stork
One more sad but friendly street dog.
Kasbah Taourirt from the Ouarzazate Cinema Museum.
Kasbah Taourirt
There is a strong connection with the USA here because of the movie industry.
Kasbah Taourirt
The pigeons of Kasbah Taourirt
The Ouarzazate Cinema Museum.
No idea which movie(s) this set is from.
Bad Clay!
Wish I knew my movie sets better.
These courtyards have probably appeared in many films.
The Oscar Hotel by Atlas Studios, built in 1983 by a Moroccan investor to accommodate Hollywood film crews.
Kasbah Ait-Ben-Haddou
Painted on a door while walking up to the hilltop: Hand of Fatima, symbol of the Berber peoples, flag of Morocco, another Berber symbol.
Near the summit; the bridge we crossed before staring our climb is below.
At the summit.
The ruin on the summit, probably freshly damaged after the 6.8 earthquake on September 8, 2023.
Memorial cairns on the summit
Now there’s a restaurant with a view!
Beautiful architecture
More beautiful architecture
The entrance to the Kasbah Ait-Ben-Haddou.
On the roof of the Kasbah Ait-Ben-Haddou with the city behind.
Lunch at Cafe Rafik.
The Col du Tichka summit marker on N9 says 7,415 feet, but apparently 7,234 feet is more accurate. The climb from the south was impressive, but the views as we continued over the summit were even more impressive.
It’s hard to capture from ground level, but it’s probably the most impressive spaghetti-maze of roads I’ve ever seen snaking its way through a mountain pass.
On our way to Marrakesh, we saw dozens of these double-decker trucks with livestock (usually cattle) standing in the pens on top and covered with a net, as if the net was enough to hold them in. Definitely wouldn’t pass a CHP inspection.
Marrakesh was strikingly modern and metropolitan.
They even had a mall…with a liquor store inside.
Wow! Beer in men’s size: 17 whole ounces in a single can!
Pretty funny that Abdul had us stop at the mall and purchase alcohol, and then there is a sign at our hotel emphatically stating we could not bring said alcohol into the hotel (that’s our beer in the red bag right next to the sign). Not even bottled water! 🤔 They seemed to turn a blind eye, probably because we were a large group bringing a lot of business to the hotel.
Leaving our hotel for the horse carriage ride to Marrakesh’s famous Jemâa el-Fna outdoor market space.
The 12th century Koutoubia mosque.
Even at 9 pm, the Jemâa el-Fna outdoor market was still in full swing.
So magical at night!
Carnival-style games
Market stalls (the restaurant we go to later is the tall building)
Escargot
Easy there Natasha!
Carey & Cayla go nuts
In front of Argana restaurant where we had dessert on the upstairs terrace.
Our view over the market from Argana restaurant while we enjoyed ice cream and sorbet. The Jemâa el-Fna market must be visited at night for the full experience! What a night!
