Loch Ness
“English humor resembles the Loch Ness Monster in that both are famous but there is a strong suspicion that neither exists.”
Divergent Paths
After seven fun-filled days together, Monday morning (Jul 17) saw us driving north toward Inverness, while Jeff and Madi headed south to Edinburgh.
Although we stopped for groceries in Inverness, our final destination was Fort Augustus at the southern end of Loch Ness.
If you zoom out on the map above, you’ll find Inverness to the north. To get an idea just how long Loch Ness is, consider that it took us just over an hour to drive from Tesco in Inverness to our apartment in Fort Augustus.
Click on the video below to see Apartment 1 at The Old Convent Holiday Apartments in Fort Augustus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfS3LXNLRXg
Here’s a wild one we’ll never see again—us at Loch Ness and Jeff and Madi in Edinburgh!
The Loch Ness Centre
Loch Ness is a large freshwater loch (lake) in the Scottish Highlands, extending for approximately 23 miles southwest of Inverness. It takes its name from the River Ness, which flows from the northern end.
If you look at a satellite image of Scotland, the Great Glen Fault features prominently as a massive diagonal scar across the full breadth of the landscape.
What we think of today as Scotland was once separate land masses. Two tectonic plates collided at the Great Glen Fault—and side slipped as they did so—forming the single landmass with the Great Glen (valley) between them.
The fault zone filled with glaciers during an ice age, and carved and eroded much of the great valley well below sea level.
When the the glaciers receded, four lakes remained—the largest of which is Loch Ness.
In the 19th century, a boat canal known as the Caledonian Canal was dug through the Great Glen, allowing travel from the Irish Sea in the southwest to the the North Sea in the northeast. I include more about the canal later.
Loch Ness is the second-largest Scottish loch by surface area after Loch Lomond, but due to its great depth it is the largest by volume in Great Britain.
Its deepest point is 755 feet, making it the second deepest loch in Scotland after Loch Morar (the loch upon whose shore Hogwarts Castle rests in the Harry Potter movies).
Loch Ness contains more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined.
Water visibility is exceptionally low due to a high peat content in the surrounding soil.
Amanda and her beloved hydrangeas.
We could show you what’s inside, but they swore us to secrecy. Nessie, your mystery is safe with us!
If you’ve read Outlander or other novels set in Scotland, you’ll likely have heard about Selkies and Changelings. In previous posts we’ve also mentioned Kelpies and Unicorns.
“No mortal ear could have heard the kelpie passing through the night, for the great black hooves of it were as soundless in their stride as feathers falling.”
Scottish mythology is littered with supernatural creatures, which include Cuachag, Shellycoat, Brownies, and so many more the list could drag on.
Is it any wonder then, that the legend of the Loch Ness Monster evolved in the Scottish Highlands? Perhaps the best known monster the world over, Nessie has become an enduring part of our collective imagination, so much so that Loch Ness was one of the most crowded locations we’ve visited on our grand tour. It seems we all love Nessie!
Did you know the first reported sighting of Nessie was in AD 565 by St Columba?
The so-called "surgeon's photograph" was reportedly the first photo of the creature's head and neck. It turned out to be a hoax.
It was revealed many years later by one of the pranksters to be wood putty affixed to the top of a toy submarine.
When filming the model, the men heard a lake police boat approaching, so they sank the model. Ironically, the fake is presumably still somewhere in Loch Ness.
Urquhart Castle
Urquhart Castle rests roughly midway along the western shore of Loch Ness, and just south of the Loch Ness Centre.
Founded in the 13th century, the present ruins date from the 13th to the 16th centuries, though built on the site of an early medieval fortification.
The castle grounds provide a commanding view of Loch Ness.
Such a beautiful boat.
Given its strategic position, the castle has seen its fair share of battles.
King Edward I brought the castle back into English control in 1303 during a lengthy campaign in Scotland. His troops used a trébuchet like this one to lay siege to the castle.
In 1308, Scottish King Robert the Bruce captured and razed the castle.
It was sacked by The Lord of the Isles in 1513 and the entire area was laid to waste.
At the end of the 17th century, the castle was packed with explosives and blown up, so it could not be used as a Jacobite base.
It’s amazing we have anything left to visit.
The Scottish sky, dramatic as always.
The Grant Tower House
Nature always finds a way to spring forth.
Inside the Grand Tower House looking out over Loch Ness.
Standing on an older section of the castle, looking north at the Grant Tower toward Inverness.
Looking south toward Fort Augustus.
We took a moment to scan the waters, hoping for a glimpse of the elusive Loch Ness Monster. Alas, it was not to be. Maybe next time…
Meanwhile, back in Edinburgh on Wednesday evening (Jul 19)—Jeff and Madi found a dime behind the Tron, right off the Royal Mile.
Number 4!
The next morning we set out to explore Fort Augustus and spotted a dime right on the path in front of us. That’s 5 in total for the eleven days of Jeff and Madi’s visit.
I think Keith had some fun with us while we were all here together.
Fort Augustus Locks
The 60-mile-long Caledonian Canal is a waterway that cuts through the Highlands between the Irish Sea near Fort William in the southwest and the North Sea near Inverness in the northeast.
Only one third of the entire length is man-made, the rest being formed by Loch Dochfour, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Locky.
There are 29 locks—including eight at Neptune's Staircase (which we saw back in Fort William) and five here at the Fort Augustus Locks.
Each lock is either 170 or 180 feet long, and 40 feet wide and 25 feet deep.
The water filling the back lock, while…
…the six vessels were lowered in the forward lock (Loch Ness in the distance).
The entire passage through the five lochs and the swing bridge must last well over an hour. Yikes!
The lock operator (above).
Considering that the Canal was constructed between 1804-22 (and refurbished 1843-47), its quite a marvel to see it all still in full operation over 200 years later—especially the amazing swing bridge.
Everything moves super slow, so I sped up the video below for you viewing enjoyment. Check out the swing bridge at the end; I think that was the most interesting part.
Jeff & Madi Fly Home
Jeff and Madi’s Aer Lingus Airbus A320 narrow-body climbs out of Edinburgh Airport headed for Dublin, Ireland.
Hours later, Jeff and Madi’s Aer Lingus Airbus A330-300 level at Flight Level 360 approaching the Northwestern Passages.
One factor we were truly unprepared to handle was the gut punch it is every time family leaves us.
Yes, we chose to be away for so long.
Yes, more family will arrive in one day.
Yes, our trip is nearly over and we'll be home in the blink of an eye.
Yes, we remain very excited for the many things that still remain.
Yes, one day very soon we’ll be crying and wishing we were back here.
All true. All true.
And yet, it still manages to nearly reduce us to puddles of goo when family leaves. We miss our family and as much as we have deeply loved nearly every minute of this grand adventure, we also look forward to the comfort and familiarity that comes from living near those we most love and adore. 🥰
Inverness
We arrived in Inverness in the early afternoon on Friday (Jul 21), walking around town until we could check-in to our next apartment.
The Town House is a beautiful municipal building located on High Street.
Inverness Castle from Ness Bridge. The castle is closed for restoration work.
We heard a few Scots talking down about Inverness, but we’ve found the city to be quite charming and enjoyable.
Walking back to our apartment along the River Ness.
Here is a quick tour of our apartment in Inverness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyOd5Ry5Lcw
As we head off to bed tonight, Jeff and Madi will be placing their seat backs and tray tables in their full upright position in preparation for landing at SFO, while Dave and Christa will be preparing to leave for LAX for their flight to Heathrow. Safe travels everyone!
