Lallybroch
“Take me home to Lallybroch.”
Today (Dec 22) we rented a car and drove about 45 minute northwest of Edinburgh to visit two castles that are not only of historical interest, but also have a connection with the filming of Outlander.
Lallybroch
There is something impressive about the way Midhope Castle envelops the horizon at the top of a rise. As you approach the gate and get your first glimpse, it really is magnificent to behold.
Midhope Castle is part of the larger Hopetoun House and Estate, which was selected in 2013 for use in the Outlander series. Hopetoun House is far more elaborate than Midhope Castle and was the setting for the home of the Duke of Sandringham in Series 1, a duel scene and sword fight scene, and the courtyard behind the Stables Tearoom features regularly as a Parisian street location in Series 2.
However, it is Midhope Castle, which is used at the exterior of Lallybroch, that really captures the imagination. (Sadly, the interior is derelict.)
Lallybroch, also known as Broch Tuarach, is the small, fictional estate that belonged to Brian and Ellen Fraser, and whose ownership passed to Jamie Fraser after his father's death. According to Jamie, the land is fairly rich and offers opportunity for fishing and hunting. Lallybroch supports about sixty crofts, as well as the small village, Broch Mordha. Jamie's family home is the manor house on the estate.
I’ll be your Jamie!
See? Almost as sexy as Sam Hugh!
Claire returns to Lallybroch in the 20th Century with the roof removed by CG magic.
Claire remembers.
Claire and Jenny on the front steps in the 18th Century.
The courtyard in 2022.
The courtyard set as the 18th century.
The house was built in 1458. After the death of the second owner in 1478, Midhope was passed to Alexander Drummond and his wife Marjorie Bruce in 1587. Drummond rebuilt the tower and turrets and a date stone containing their initials (above) commemorates their ownership. Originally located in the lintel of the front door, the date stone is now part of the gateway arch.
As it is…
As it looks with some CG magic!
Goodbye Lallybroch!
Blackness Castle—”The Ship That Never Sailed.”
Blackness Castle
After leaving the amazing Lallybroch, we drove to Blackness Castle, which is a 15th-century fortress, near the village of Blackness, Scotland, on the south shore of the Firth of Forth. It was used in Outlander to represent Fort William, where Jamie had received lashes from Captain Randall. It is also where Jamie’s father died, having to endure watching his son being punished. Later in Season 1, Jamie breaks into the castle, rescuing Claire from the hands of Black Jack, jumping into the water below. (One look at the picture above and you’ll realize you won’t hit water dropping from these windows! But hey, maybe the tide was really far in.)
The entrance and its impressive iron yett.
Fun fact: yett is an Old English and Scottish word for a gate or grille of latticed wrought iron bars used for defensive purposes in castles and tower houses. Unlike a portcullis (from yesterday at Edinburgh Castle), which is raised and lowered vertically using mechanical means, yetts are hinged in the manner of a traditional gate or door, and secured by bolts attached to the yett, or by long bars drawn out from the wall or gateway. Now you know. And knowing is half the battle.
Amanda and Pam pass through the open yett and take in the scene, remembering poor Jamie.
If you made it past the yett (to the right), you would enter this tunnel. The only problem was, there is a small hole in the wall behind you where soldiers hid and would shoot you in the back. Those clever Scots!
The Keep
Three Bridges in the distance, as seen from the roof of the Keep.
A working drawbridge—yes!
Amanda and Pam thinking about poor Jamie!
The castle is unmistakably between the this image and the one above.
At the prow of the ship, looking back on the courtyard.
The amazing Great Hall.
After all that eating in the Great Hall…
Pam waits patiently while Amanda and I went up and down all the narrow and treacherous stairs, and around the wall walk.
Linlithgow Palace
After all that exploring, we were hungry for linner. In a case of serendipity, we drove into the town of Linlithgow looking to eat at Star and Garter Hotel. The place was deserted, which is never a good sign, so we left and found the wonderful Aran Café just down the street.
After some great food and some warm beverages, we had started to walk back to the car, when we looked up the street and saw that Linlithgow Palace was right there. The palace is closed as it undergoes a massive restoration project, but it was still work a peek.
A grand entrance.
This is the palace where Mary Queen of Scots was born to James V of Scotland and Mary of Guise.
They have a lot of work in front of them, but let’s hope they are able to restore this magnificent loch-side castle!
As a rule, serendipity should come in threes. First the café, then the palace, and then we walked into an Oxfam thrift store and I found the Ian Rankin book I learned about when we were at Rosslyn Chapel a few days ago. 1-2-3!
To top it all off, we were almost back to our car in the Tesco car park when Amanda spotted a dime.
