Full Circle
“We look to Scotland for all our ideas of Civilization.”
Edinburgh Bound
We left the Hayshed Cottage in Cupar and headed straight for Edinburgh.
Traveling south on M90 approaching Scotland’s famous three bridges—the Forth Bridges—which span the Firth of Forth to connect Fife in the north to Edinburgh in the south.
We drove over the Queensferry Crossing, which at 1.7 miles in length, is the longest 3-tower, cable-stayed bridge in the world.
How very surreal to be back, living in Edinburgh. After all, this is the place where it all began—nearly nine months to the day, as it so happened.
We departed LAX on November 12, 2022, landed at LHR on November 13, flew to Edinburgh that evening, took the AirLink bus into the city center, and then schlepped four suitcases and two backpacks over the cobbled streets of Edinburgh for just under a mile before arriving at our cottage on Gayfield Square late that night.
Several days after arriving, here is what I wrote in my very first post:
It’s late on a rainy Thursday afternoon in Edinburgh. Halfway around the world, our friends and family are waking to begin the day, the same day that for us has nearly ended.
For the better part of the preceding year and beyond, Amanda and I envisioned and contemplated this time. We romanticized our stay in the quaint Georgian merchant’s house built in the early 1800s. The castle perched prominently on the hill, old graveyards, and bolthole coffee shops—all connected by ancient cobblestone streets—featured large in our dreams.
The unspoken question was whether reality could hold a candle against our impossibly optimistic imaginings.
And now I mull over how to convey what it feels like to be back in Edinburgh on August 18, 2023, a bit over nine months after our epic journey began in this very place.
Nine months seems like a lifetime ago, and the looming question must be: how did our reality fair?
Humility truly is a virtue. So, I say with as much genuine humility as I can muster—we nailed it!!
This trip was everything we hoped and dreamed it would be, and so much more. And being back in Edinburgh, we both agree on one more thing—we love this city! There is something deeply special about Edinburgh. Under different life circumstances, we could easily call this town home.
In fact, we are in the grips of a mental tug-of-war: anxious to return home to friends and family, and deeply saddened at the prospect of our imminent departure. Seeming opposites, both equally true.
As a barometer, this internal conflict points to one word: SUCCESS. What we imagined, hoped and longed for—happened.
New Haunts
Our new place is in the Stockbridge area of Edinburgh. This was one of the few places we booked through Airbnb rather than Vrbo.
I’ve been a far bigger fan of Vrbo over Airbnb, but I am starting to warm to Airbnb. This place we found is a great example of someplace that Airbnb offers but Vrbo was not likely to list, as it’s a room inside a larger house. We didn’t think we would like that arrangement, but now that we’re here, this place is better than some of the places where we have had the whole house to ourselves.
You can check out our place on Airbnb if you want here. Otherwise, here is a quick video tour: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLOVZRfYFSc
Old Haunts
Like I said on the video, we asked if we could drop our bags off early and the owner told us the last guests to use the suite had left early to catch their flight, so she simply allowed us to check-in at noon, which was super helpful!
Bastard Barista
All settled in early, we headed out to visit some of our favorite spots. The Bastard Barista was even more on fire than before. They are now carrying pastries from a local Edinburgh wholesaler: VGN Bakery Co.
I had a hazelnut pain au chocolat and a mocha; both were exceptional. This is still some of the best coffee I’ve ever had the pleasure to drink! The new pastries just elevated their game to a whole new level.
My lovely bride was equally happy with her VGN Bakery cinnamon bun.
I guess I’ve forgiven the poor Bastard after my Boxing Day rant. 😂
Archipelago Bakery
We’ll let you know if things change after having bread in Paris. Holding that caveat in reserve, the Archipelago Bakery sourdough round is the single best loaf of bread we’ve eaten—ever! It was just as amazing now as it was last winter.
Dishoom
Dishoom is the best! We’ve enjoyed their food in Edinburgh, London, and Manchester, and it's consistently good no matter which restaurant you visit.
Our current host wrote this about Dishoom in her guidebook:
“I held off putting this Indian restaurant in my guidebook because I thought it too mainstream, but have now relented…because it’s fantastic!”
We couldn’t agree more. The perfect dinner before the 2023 Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Edinburgh Festivals & The Fringe
Six Edinburgh events serve up a smorgasbord of culture, filling the city's performance venues, event spaces, and streets:
The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
Edinburgh International Festival
Edinburgh Art Festival
Edinburgh International Book Festival
Edinburgh International Film Festival
As its name implies, The Fringe operates on the fringe of the other festivals.
It all began in 1947 with eight companies—six of them from Scotland—taking a risk, turning up uninvited and performing on the “fringe” of the inaugural Edinburgh International Festival.
Over 75 years later, the Fringe has grown to become a world-renowned celebration of arts and culture, a byword for adventurous performance and the premier meeting place for artists and creatives to perform, gather, exchange, discover, and select new work.
What was once the Tolbooth Kirk is now called The Hub, an events venue best known for hosting the Edinburgh International Festival.
In the background you can see the stadium seats that have been erected around the Castle Esplanade for the Tattoo.
Street Performances
Unicycle-riding fire juggling
Multi-instrument musician
Living statue on a bicycle
Living bronze statue
That Junk Guy
Even a skeleton marionette dancing to music!
History Alice
You may remember that Amanda follows History Alice (aka Alice Loxton) on Instagram. We have Alice to thank for introducing us to Harvington Hall, the amazing house in the Cotswolds that contained the elaborate priest hides built by master carpenter Nicholas Owen. She was also instrumental in our visit to the Vindolanda Roman auxiliary fort near Hadrian’s Wall.
On Saturday morning (Aug 19) we attended her Fringe show UPROAR!—the same title as her first book, which was recently published.
The show, like the book, focused on James Gillray, the brilliant caricaturist of the late Georgian period, whose political drawings—as you might imagine—created quite an uproar.
After the show we had a chance to thank Alice in person for helping make our trip more memorable by including visits to places she introduced us to.
2023 Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
Set against the ancient Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is the largest and best-known in the world.
It may the best known, but did you know it is not the only tattoo? There are many other tattoos held each year around the globe, including the Basel Tattoo in Swizerland, the Quebec City Military Tattoo in Canada, and the Virginia International Tattoo in the USA, just to name a few.
It should come as no surprise that it has been a longtime dream to see the Edinburgh Tattoo in person.
Today the word “tattoo” is synonymous with body art; however, the first use of the word was in the 1640s from the Dutch “tap toe.”
In the early 1600s, military drummers were sent out into the towns at 9:30 pm each evening to inform the soldiers that it was time to return to barracks. The process was known as doe den tap toe (Dutch for "turn off the tap"), an instruction to innkeepers to stop serving beer and send the soldiers home for the night. The drummers continued to play until curfew at 10:00 pm. Now you know. 🧐
